Wednesday, 8 September 2010

On Saturday me and Tom went down to Coe Crag.. fairly hungover and managed to do a few routes.
Tom warmed up on Honeycomb Wall (HVS 4c), one i've done before. Not a give away at the grade but easy enough if you take your time.

I decided to take a look at Rough Castles Crack (VS 5a) - a fairly obvious jamming crack line which gets 3 stars in the guidebook. I took my time on it but really enjoyed it, absorbing climbing and solid jams all the way up with bomber protection.

We finished off on Worrisome Wasp (HVS 5a) with Tom on the lead again, really nice route on big steep holds, great fun.

On the way back we decided to try and take a 'short-cut' but got hopelessly lost. The track ran through a forest and span us around in so many directions we lost ourselves. It got dark and we had no map. Typical 'laddish' attitude got us through in the end though and we arrived back at the car around 10pm.. tired and hungry.

The map below gives you some idea (and myself) how wrong we went.. the blue tab is the crag and the end is the car park!


Whooops...

On Sunday a load of us took a trip to Bowden doors. It was mega busy at first, so I just soloed a few lines. Friction was good due to the wind.. I flashed Klondyke Wall (E2 5c) which was almost too easy after all the time i'd given myself to do it.. Me and Oli worked on Don't Let Go (E2 5c) which is much much harder! We had a few pads so working the moves was easy enough. It took a few attempts but eventually we worked the crux moves and Oli did it on a rope with me following him up shortly after. Nice climbing.
After that I took some time out with Leonie and got her back on the leading game with Deception Crack (Vdiff). She led it well after a little encouragement. Reckon after a bit more practice she'll be on VS in no time.

We finished off back home and chilled out. Still moving stuff around the new place but i'm really happy with how its all working out.